Moreau-Naudet Chablis 2021

“This is one of Chablis's finest estates, … Virginie Moreau presides over this leading domaine, where the order of the day is organic (but not certified) farming; harvesting ripe but clean fruit, cropped at modest yields; and extended maturation on the lees. Concentrated, textural wines that are some of the most characterful to be found in Chablis are the result, and that's certainly the case in 2018—which over-performs the vintage—and 2019.” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Diam. Moreau’s Villages Chablis is drawn mostly from 20- to 30-year-old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis, in the south of Chablis. Then, there are parcels in Chablis and Chichée (under the 1er cru Vaugiraut). All up, the Domaine has the luxury of working with 30 parcels scattered across the appellation, representing a variety of soil structures and exposures. All the fruit from the younger vines is sold off in bulk, which perennially helps Moreau deliver a Chablis greater than the sum of its parts.
 
The fruit was subject to a very gentle four-hour press, and the juice was fermented with natural yeasts (a rarity in Chablis). It was raised mostly in tank, yet the élevage was unhurried. This spent 20 months on lees—considerably longer than most Chablis of this level.
 
These traditional methods—along with hand-harvesting, the quality of the terroir, low yields and the full ripeness levels at which the fruit is harvested—help to explain the mouthcoating texture, salty depths and the quality that is on offer. Scents of stone fruits, iodine, orange blossom and lemon peel overlay a silky, Burgundian texture. It’s powerful but precise with a rippling length of ripe, chalky acidity.