Clos Mogador Priorat 2017

Spain’s Priorat region has a reputation for being one of the inkiest, deepest, most intense wines on the planet. What a surprise then to tuck into this Gratallops-grown red (a blend of 46% garnacha, 29% cariñena, 15% syrah, and 10% cabernet sauvignon) and find such a fruity, lively delicacy. The wine is bursting up front with red berries, baking spice, and a very gently smoky note that adds nuance to the wine the way grilling a plum brings out a new dimension of flavor. As it develops in the glass and on the palate, the wine evolves further, layering in a gentle vanilla note, chunks of dark chocolate, and a light balsamic note that feels perfectly at home with the raspberry attack and the cocoa-powdered finish. Incredibly silky on the tongue and chameleonic in depth — with hints of graphite and tanned leather peeking out at times — this is a rare collectable bottling that is already drinking at the top of its game — and which, I believe, will continue to do so for years.