Domaine Rougeot Monthelie 'Les Toisieres' 2020

On the nose it displays complex flavours of melon, apple and fresh young hazelnuts. The palate is elegant yet powerful, showcasing crunchy fresh apples and white stone fruit followed by a saline profile and toasted hazelnut edge. It matches perfectly with shellfish such as lobster and prawns, an array of cured meats, terrine, chicken and roast pork. It’s drinking deliciously now with a 35-minute decant before serving, and will age till 2026.

Young vines now 20 years old, though some are struggling (161/49 rootstock and drought). The vineyard faces west with a very light topsoil over the limestone. Fullish yellow, but the fruit is much more in white mode, fills the mid palate, generous and attractive. Will be lovely to drink young but not so much a keeper. 89-91 points, Jasper Morris.