Joh Jos Prum Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 2022

At this level, the Prüm wines are still light in body, but the flavour intensity and depth of character go up markedly, and the 2022s deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and slate-like minerality. There is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily more overt sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Katharina Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table. We agree. These wines are already thrilling to taste but will continue gaining depth and complexity for decades.