Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Eiswein 2014

Amazingly when one considers the rigors that this vintage’s fruit had to withstand and the fact that Riesling required stringent selection to avoid negative botrytis, Moosbrugger was able to harvest one healthy patch of Grüner Veltliner after it froze in late December. I tasted the results late last spring from the two small acacia barrels in which this elixir was raised and from which it was due to have been bottled in early autumn, but I report on them here lest I not have a subsequent opportunity to assess them. Gooseberry and mirabelle preserves are laced with fresh lime and floral honey. There is palpably high extract but also levity and juicy brightness. The finish here is startling in its sheer penetration as well as its incorporation of saline and crystalline elements—rare in a wine this ripe and residually sweet. At once soothingly rich and invigorating, here is an Eiswein that might well merit longer cellaring than my numerical prognosis suggests, though this genre is inherently unpredictable.

92-93 points David Schildknecht vinous.com Feb 2018 Drink 2017 - 2024