Voliero Brunello di Montalcino 2019

A mentholated freshness introduces the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino, as a vibrant wave of crushed cherries, mint leaf, clove and dusty roses make up its absolutely gorgeous bouquet. This is silky and enveloping yet lifted and full of energy, with crunchy red berry fruits that leave a crackle of primary concentration toward the close. It finishes pretty saline and spicy in character, leaving edgy tannins to mingle with a residual bump of acidity that maintains a wonderfully fresh sensation as tart cranberry notes fade. This is one of the most exciting young renditions of Voliero I have ever tasted. It captivates with its precision and spry personality while holding depths of complexity in reserve. Wow.

I always look forward to tasting the Voliero next to the Uccelliera wines, as they really display the stark differences in site. While Uccelliera is all about showing Castelnuovo dell’Abate terroir from top to bottom, Voliero hails from a combination of higher-elevation sights within Castelnuovo dell’Abate, as well as parcels in Sant’Angelo in Colle. Voliero is also refined in large oak casks for 30 months, versus the Uccelliera, which spends 24 months in a combination of French and Slavonian oak. In most vintages, the Voliero has a more nervous personality and mineral core, which I mean in the best possible way. The 2019 is no different. There’s an energy and precision here that is wildly attractive. This year, deciding between the two wines was like splitting hairs. They are equally impressive for entirely different reasons.

96 points Eric Guido vinous.com Jan 2024