Georges Laval Cumieres Brut Nature Champagne NV

While the Laval family has been growing vines for four generations, it was not until 1971 that Georges Laval began producing estate-bottled Champagne. Now under the direction of George's son Vincent, this is one of the great under the radar properties in the region. Laval’s vineyard holdings comprise just 2.5 hectares, most in the premier cru village of Cumières. Across the seven parcels the average vine age is over 30 years, with the oldest vines of the estate over 70 years of age. Organic viticulture has been practiced since 1971, and despite the challenges of this approach in Champagne, they are now certified by Ecocert. Laval’s wines are harvested ripe and almost never chaptalized, and fermentation takes place in barrel, with indigenous yeasts. The wines are bottled late, usually about ten months after the harvest, and they are neither fined, filtered nor cold-stabilized.

Cumieres Brut Nature is a blend of 57% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir, and 10% Pinot Meunier, and is fermented in oak before three years in bottle prior to disgorging with no dosage.

The NV Brut Nature Cumières (2017) makes me feel like I am in the cellar, tasting with Vincent Laval. A Champagne of tremendous purity and nuance, the NV captures all of the flavor intensity, drive and nuance that make the wines of Cumières so alluring. This release, based on 2017, sizzles with nervy energy. Time in the glass brings out layers of perfume and a whole range of red-toned fruits. In a word: terrific. Disgorged: February 21, 2020. Drink 2020-2028.
91 points
Antonio Galloni - Vinous